Bone Daddies’ have just launched their first pop-up restaurant Shackfuyu (‘Shack’ being a rough and ready space and ‘Fuyu’ meaning winter in Japanese) in Soho with the idea that it remains open from this winter up until the next. We popped along to check it out, they have a no reservations policy so we had a few drinks in the bar in the basement whilst we waited for a table.
Having made his name with Bone Daddies Ramen Bar (Soho and Kensington) and Flesh & Buns (Covent Garden) Ross Shonhan’s innovative and playful take on Japanese cuisine, particularly ‘drinking food’ served in Japan’s izakayas is yet again apparent. Signature dishes are featured, we noticed the korean fried wings that we’ve had at Bone Daddies made an appearance – there’s definitely something there for his many loyal fans.
The menu at Shackfuyu will change regularly (announcements will be made via social media and on the Shackfuyu website, throughout the duration of the pop-up) and we are told by our waiters revolve around one main dish, the rest will be made up of a selection of small dishes and accompanying sides highlighting flavours and cuisines currently represented in Japan.
We were lucky enough to sample the opening menu; including the BEST prawn toast ever (we’d make a trip back just for that), flavoursome prawns embedded in a crisp yet light coating the description of which is prawn toast masquerading as okonomiyaki (a Japanese savoury pancake), they were so good we immediately ordered another plate – Shackfuyu you’ve set the bar for prawn toast we don’t care what you masquerade as!! Everything we tried was beautifully executed, the light melt in your mouth aubergine with bubu arare (crispy puffed rice pellets) took this dish to a whole different level – simply sensational, the deliciously crispy and cheesy mac and cheese had an interesting twist and came with fish eggs on top. The roasted beets with avocado were a nice combination and the chicken wings an old favourite. The main was a USDA beef bicanha with kimchee and tare butter, the meat was tender and perfectly complimented all of the sides/small dishes we had. Dessert was a delicious french toast served with green tea ice-cream which was simply divine.
Ross Shonhan says; “We’ve been waiting a long time for this site, so to have the pop-up finally underway is a really exciting project for Bone Daddies. The smaller menu and temporary site gives us the chance to play with dishes and try something new with our guests, without the usual expectations and boundaries. Hopefully we will create a fun dining event for both existing supporters and those discovering us for the first time”.
Background music was true to Bone Daddies signature rock ‘n’ roll style, the atmosphere relaxed but buzzy. We can’t wait to see what’s next on the menu but we really hope they keep the prawn toast!!